How to Disassemble a Walther P22
- Contents
- Introduction & Disclaimer
- Tips before getting started
- Tools
- Ensure pistol is not loaded & remove ammo
- Remove slide
- Remove action
- Separate slideplates
- Remove trigger assembly
- Remove hammer assembly
- Remove barrel
- Remove breech
- Remove safety
- Disassemble receiver
- Disassemble magazine

Introduction & Disclaimer
Firearms are deadly weapons. Improperly disassembling a firearm can result in damage that may cause the firearm to malfunction causing serious injury or death. This tutorial is meant for informational purposes only. By viewing this content you acknowledge that there are no warranties whatsoever to the accuracy of this information. It is strongly suggested that you take your firearm to a licensed gunsmith for servicing.
The following information illustrates how to disassemble a Walther P22. I tried to err on the side of too much information rather than not enough. You'll notice that the slide lever release "j" spring isn't pictured anywhere, and that's because I didn't have a nice step-by-step guide the first time I disassembled my P22 and I lost it. Luckily, the pistol functions just fine without it.
The pistol used in this information has not had the necessary modifications yet, so you'll notice some pretty bad knocks in the slide. It also just come off of the range, so it's pretty dirty.
The number that corresponds to Smith & Wesson's Walther P22 manual is listed in parentheses after each part.
Clicking any picture on this page will cause a larger image to open over the existing content.
Your comments and question are welcome. Please submit them using the form at the bottom of this page or email me
Tips before getting started
- Make sure your work area is clean and that you can find springs and small parts easily if (when) they're dropped.
- Springs may fly out when slideplates are separated.
- Be patient and don't force anything. The pistol is a mechanical device that operates with close tolerances and damaged can result if things are forced.
Tools
- Phillips head screw driver
- 3/32in. punch
- 1/16in. punch
- Soft hammer
- Large Ziplock freezer bag
Ensure pistol is not loaded
Before you get started taking breaking your pistol down, give it a thorough check to make sure that it's not loaded. Drop the magazine, lock the slide back and check the chamber and action for rounds. To be extra careful, I also remove all ammunition from the vicinity of my work area and put it in a drawer or cabinet where it's sure to stay secure.
Remove the slide
- Pull down takedown lever (17)

- Thumb down slide stop lever (16) and pull the slide back
The rear of the slide will pop up in the rear

- Pull the slide back toward the front of the pistol, over barrel and off.
- You will have to lift the back of slide slightly to get it off
- You will have to lift the back of slide slightly to get it off
- Remove the spring guidance rod (21) and recoil spring (22) and you should now have a pistol that looks like the image below.

Remove the action
Spring Warning:
Be careful not to lose slide stop spring(16) that sits just under the lever. Once you remove the action there's nothing to hold the lever on anymore and it will fall off. Under the lever is a small srping that has a tendecy to go flying. Some people like to put the pistol in a Ziplock bag before removing the action to ensure the spring doesn't get lost.

- Push the two dowel pins (18, 19) through the frame

- Remove the action from receiver being careful not to lose the slide release lever spring
I lost my slide release lever spring a long time ago and never bothered to replace it because it's not a crucial component. Therefore, you won't see it pictured.

Note:
This is the point at which to stop for cleaning the pistol. The action is exposed and there's not much that you can't get to with a good can of polymer-safe spray solvent.
Separate the slideplates
Separate the slideplate (left half (2), right half (3)). This is where stuff can get lost if you're not careful. Take a look at this entire section before you do anything so you see that there are two spring and one part that can potentially get lost if you're not careful.
- Unscrew stove bolts (4, 5)
Note that the stove bolt (5) that is just below the barrel is longer than the stove bolt (4) that is below the trigger assembly

- Push the straight pin (7) (trigger pin) half way through from right to left while holding the action upside down as show below
Don't push the pin all the way through. Leaving it in place to secure the trigger assembly as you separate the slideplates.

-
Spring Warning:
When separating the slideplate, the magazine safety spring (24) outer and spring (34) inner may fly out. Some people like to put the slideplate in a plastic Ziplock bag before separating it so anything that falls or flys ut can be easily found.
-
Spring Warning:
Trigger lock spring (26) may fall or fly outt
-
Part Warning:
When separating the slideplate halves the ejector (11) may fall out
-
- This will allow the left slideplate (2) to be separated.

- Remove the trigger lock (25), trigger lock spring (26) and the ejector (11) at this point because they're loose. You don't want to lose them as you continue to disassemble to pistol.
Remove the trigger assembly
- Push the straight pin (7) the rest of the way through trigger assembly
- Now that it's free, maneuver the rear end of trigger assembly around hammer assembly and lift it off the slideplate.
-
Note:
Half cocking the hammer will give you more room to get the trigger assembly out. - Remove the pin from the plastic trigger using a 1/16in. punch.
Note that the spring will fall when the pin is removed.

- After you remove & Dismantle the trigger assembly and you should have something that looks like this:

Remove the hammer assembly
- Relieve pressure on the trigger assembly components by lowering trigger. To do this, lift up on sear (9) by pushing down on its arm as shown in the picture below.

- Make sure straight pin (7) is all the way through the trigger assembly and while still holding the sear out of the way, gently pull the hammer back further and slowly lower it.

- Here's an image of the hammer assembly with all components how they should be reassembled.
Note the position of the hammer and spring for reassembly. Long end of hammer spring contacts slide plate at the bottom, etc.
Note the position of the sear & spring and that long end of spring contacts the slideplate

- Slide the long end of the hammer spring over the catch on the slideplate to relieve pressure on hammer

- Push down on arm of sear and lift out the hammer assembly. This may take a little finesse. It's easiest to lift the hammer off by pulling the pin out if possible.

-
Note:
Once hammer is off, relieve pressure on sear and it will go vertical
- Lift the sear off of the pin and be careful because the spring will fall

- Remove sear pin also, if it's still stuck in the slideplate
Remove the barrel
-
Note:
I like to leave the barrel on up to this point because it makes handling the slideplate easier when removing other components. I'm not saying that you should use the barrel as a point for torque, just a gentle hold. - Unscrew the barrel nut (48) using the supplied wrench

-
Note:
A little heat may be required if you've ever applied (blue) Loctite to the barrel threads in the past. - Slide the sleeve off over the barrel

- Gently remove the barrel from the slide plate by pulling on the chamber

- You have now completely disassembled insert, frame and action. Your Walther P22 should look something like this:

Remove the breech
- Use a 1/16in. punch to push the extractor pin (35) from the top of the slide through the bottom of the breech block (31)

-
Note:
A little light tapping may be required because the spring is putting pressure on the extractor. I use the butt of a small screw driver to tap the punch - 20 little taps are better than 2 big ones. It also helps to push in on the center of the extractor with your thumb the relieve pressure on the pin. - Remove the extractor (33) and extractor pin (34)

- Use a 3/32in. punch to push the dowel pin (32) that secures the breech block through the slide and breech.
-
Note:
In the next step, don't totally remove the dowel pin from the slide. There's a lot of pressure on the pin and leaving the end of it seated in the slide will make pushing it back through for reassembly much easier. -
Note:
The pin is seated securely and will require a little light tapping using a soft hammer. Be gentle, this is a cast zinc frame that is brittle. - Place the slide on a soft surface like a cloth over wood as to not damage the slide or its finish. Remember, the slide is cast zinc-alloy and it's brittle.

- The breech is now held in place by the pressure of the firing pin safety spring (45) and channels on the slide
-
Spring Warning:
The firing pin spring may fall/fly out when breech is removed -
Part Warning:
The firing pin safety (44) my fall when breech is removed
- Place the thumb safety in the "fire position" (or as close to it as possible if it's blocked by the dowel pin) to relieve pressure on the firing pin
- Slide the breech forward about 0.25" to clear the channels on the slide as shown below, and lift it out from the end opposite the safety block (38)

-
Note:
The firing pin, firing pin spring, firing pin safety and firing pin safety pin will now fall as pictured above because they're not held in anymore by the breech
Remove the safety
- Note position of safety block (38) before removing it. There is a flat edge with two small circles on it that must be facing the back of the breech block when reassembled.

- Unscrew the safety lever screws (41) to remove safety levers (left - 39, right - 40)

-
Note:
When removing the safety levers, the safety lever ball (42) and safety lever spring (43) pictured below my fall out.

-
Note:
The safety block will slide out once a single safety lever is removed. There's no need to remove both levers if you don't want to. - Slide safety block out of the slide

Disassemble the receiver
Disassemble the magazine
- Depress the button on the bottom of the magazine butt plate (large - 61, standard - 58)
- Slide magazine butt plate forward while holding button in

-
Note:
The Magazine spring (59) and butt plate retainer (60) will pop out when you slide the butt plate off. - Remove the magazine button (57) from magazine butt plate (58)

- Slide the magazine butt plate out of magazine body (55)
- Here's an image of the magazine components

On January 15, 2010 dick61434 said:
thank you for such detailed break down. i came in possesion off a p22 in peices and missing peices and you have the best break down i have found so farOn February 10, 2010 David said:
Hi, I have a Walther PK380 and loveit. I have ordered thru my gun dealer a P22 for plinking. Mine will have the nichel plated slide and the price seems a little high at $400.OO out the door. My PK380 only cost $340.00 out the door. My PK380 is very easy to break down and clean. Your disassembly info on the P22 seems difficult. Is it necessary to break this weapon completely down to simply clean it? Does this weapon have a plastic key to turn anti clockwise to break it down or do you just use the take down blocks? Will the barrel lift out of the slide like the PK380 held only by the rod and spring? My P22 will be here in about 2 weeks and itlooks very much like my PK380 and I assume the manuel will address the disassemby for cleaning.Just trying to get a head start on it. Thanks for anything you can tell me.On February 10, 2010 Ben said:
Hi David,This page illustrates the steps to completely disassemble a Walther P22. There's no need to get this crazy if you're just going to clean the pistol. There's a note in the page above about where to stop taking things apart if you're just cleaning the pistol.
The P22 has a fixed barrel that screws directly into the front of the chamber. It's not a float barrel as is typically found with higher caliber handguns.
I hope this helps. Remember to use the recommended types of ammunition with your P22 and you'll have a blast (no pun intended).
On April 25, 2010 Bart said:
I just got my son a p22. after our first visit to the range I went to break down the gun for cleaning but can't seem to Pull down the takedown lever. What am I missing?On April 25, 2010 Ben said:
Hi Bart,The lever can be a little stubborn. Use your fingernail to gently pry/pull the top of each side of the lever away from from the frame of the pistol as you're pulling it down. There are two little clips at the top that are tough at first. Pulling them away form the frame will allow the lever to slide easily.
- Ben
On June 2, 2010 Ricky said:
Help! After reassembling my P22 the trigger will not cock the hammer. I have gone thru the steps multiple times with the same result. The pistol looks to be assembled like it is suppose to in the picture but I can't get it to work. Any ideas on what I may be doing wrong?On June 3, 2010 Ben said:
Hi Ricky,Is an empty magazine inserted when you're pulling the trigger?
On July 4, 2010 Tom said:
Like Ricky who posted on June 2 I too just reassembled my P22. Had to remove the trigger bar and smooth out the ears so they weren't gouging my slide anymore. When I reassembled the firearm it would only work as a single action. I can shake the gun and bump it and sometimes the double action will catch. I thought I had something in wrong so disassembled again and reassembled. Cannot find what I am doing wrong. Worked fine when I initially took it apart. Please advise. Thank you!On August 5, 2010 gene entrekin said:
have a walther p22 in a box with all the pieces i think. do you have a series of instructions that will show me how to identify and install each part so that i can put it all back together again?? got it for a steal, hope all the parts are here so i can put it together and have a neat little 22 for plinking. can use most of the drawings above but need help on the hammer assembly, sear and such so the hammer will work correctly. thanks, i can pay you a little for your help if needed.On August 5, 2010 Ben said:
Hi gene,There's some close-up images of the hammer/sear in the content above. Can you follow the steps in reverse to put the assembly back together?
On August 7, 2010 Bill said:
Excellent step-by-step!I just used it to fix a friend's p22 that the PD Evidence monkeys broke. I'm not sure how they got the internal lock so jammed, but your attention do detail allowed me to get to the problem. :-)
On August 8, 2010 Max said:
I too reassembled my walther p22 after replacing the hammer spring and it now only works in single action. can pull the hammer back and it locks all the way down with my thumb but when i slide the action all the way it will not keep the hammer back! please help!!!!On August 9, 2010 Jess said:
A question & a comment...How do you remove & replace the rear sight on a P22? Please email me with instructions if possible - I'd like to replace it with a higher, elev. adj. (maybe Fiber or tritium).
Comment-I replaced my front sight with a HiViz Glock Fiber Optic front w/interchangeable light pipes - works GREAT!
Thanks
On August 25, 2010 STEVE said:
my p22 will not fire I am getting a very light mark on the rim of the 22 shell. I think maybe the firing pin is broke or damaged. Would anything else cause the weapon not to fire. If it is the firing pin how do I replace it. Thanks SteveOn August 26, 2010 Ben said:
Hi Steve,The firing pin in the P22 is a solid piece of metal. There's not much that can go wrong with it (check out the images above that talk about removing the breech, and you'll see what I mean).
It sounds like your firing pin spring needs to be replaced. Do you dry-fire the pistol often? The P22 has an inertial firing pin that seated by a small spring. When it's dry-fired too much the spring no longer returns the firing pin to fully to the rear of the breech. This added space between the pin and the hammer cause weak cartridge strikes.
Go ahead and take your P22 to a local gunsmith and let them know what's going on. Chances are good that it will be back to normal with a new firing pin spring.
On September 22, 2010 Ron said:
Definitely better than the manual. I won't go farther than the slide, but I used this as a general idea for my PK380 when I couldn't find anything good on that. Thinking about getting the 22, but read somewhere the slides are cheap.On October 23, 2010 Santiago said:
hi i was wondering if the dowel pin that holds the breech is firmly secured? because im having a hard time tapping it out it wont give... thanksOn November 13, 2010 Rudy said:
Purchased a P22 for my 10 year old and he loved it.When we cleaned it, we only dissembled it only to the point of removing the slide and spring guide.
Took it back to the range the next weekend and it wouldn't fire. I then noticed that it can dry fire even when the safety is on. Is this normal? Is this a signal that I re-assemble it wrong and thus it’s not firing?
Appreciate the feedback.
Thanks.
On February 18, 2011 Joshua said:
This was so much more helpful than the hand book that came with my pistol. Thank youOn February 26, 2011 terry said:
On February 26, 2011 Tec said: Concerning "On April 25, 2010 Bart said" I also had a problem with the takedown lever. When I found this page and looked at the first photo I noticed the slide was locked to the back to begin the disassembly process. I did that and and the takedown lever pulled down easy. This wasn't in the instruction book Walther included with the pistol. I just got mine yesterday. Hope it helps.On April 25, 2010 Bart said:
On March 8, 2011 Pete said:
Just purchased my P-22 and getting ready to break it in. A little help with which parts should be cleaned and oiled after each firing session would be of benefit. The manual states to clean barrel with oil soaked brush (?). I am using Hoppe system and their products and following their recommendations. Not sure if this is best system and would appreciate comments from others re methods/products. Thanks - love your website.On May 16, 2011 brian said:
Hello, i recently bought a p22. After putting about 300 rounds through it the internal saftey pin that you need a special tool to operate from safe to fire mode simply fell out. I dissasembled the firearm and figured out it was just a tiny spring that broke.Replaced it now i am faced with a new problem, it only works in single action. The gun fires no problem as a single action. However i really would like to have it back to normal. Looked through your step by step dissasembly here and everything looks fine. There are no parts missing and seems to be in proper order. I see other people have had this same problem but i dont see any solutions posted. Does anyone have any suggestions? Would like to avoid taking it to a gun smith.On May 28, 2011 Adam said:
To fix the single action only problem, take ur gun back apart and expand or stretch your magazine safety spring, along with your trigger bar spring. These parts become compressed and dont allow the trigger bar to return fully. Let me know if this helps.On August 16, 2011 Daryl said:
I have a new P22 and the first time I fired it the empty shell casings were not ejecting all the way out and jaming the new shell. Sometimes when loading the first round the slide going forward does not insert the shell far enough and does not close.On August 21, 2011 tyler said:
Adam is correct. I had the same single-action problem. The trigger bar spring is not very strong and it can get bent too much if you do not remove it prior to rounding off the trigger bar ears. I bent it back and the the trigger now functions properly in double action. Thanks!On October 1, 2011 donnie said:
anyone know how to remove the rear sight on the p22? its loose and cant seem to tighten it. email me please. thankyou.On November 12, 2011 Elizabeth said:
Okay I need help!!! Just purchased 22 with laser at pawn shop didn't come with manual and I was playing with my new toy been many years since I owned pistol more use to shotguns anyways, pressed button and the slide flew off and spring and rod were does the spring and rod go and how do I get it back on










